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Mongolia’s highest peak, Khuiten Peak (4,374 meters), is the second-highest point in the Altai Mountain Range and lies at the westernmost edge of Mongolia. Located near the border of Tsengel and Ulaankhus soums in Bayan-Ölgii Province, it stands close to where the borders of Mongolia, China, and Russia meet. Climbing Khuiten Peak requires special preparation, experience, and specialized equipment, with routes and conditions varying by season. Below, I’ll explain the climbing routes and conditions in a way that’s easy for English speakers to understand.
Basic Route and Preparation
To climb Khuiten Peak, you first head to Ölgii, the central city of Bayan-Ölgii Province. It’s about 1,750 kilometers from Ulaanbaatar, and you can travel by plane or car. From Ölgii to the base camp at the foot of the mountain (marked by a stone cairn called an “ovoo” built by climbers), it’s another 180–200 kilometers. This stretch involves driving off-road in a jeep or truck for 6–8 hours. Since it’s near the border, you’ll need a special permit from Mongolia’s Border Protection Agency.
For Khuiten Peak, you can’t drive all the way to the base camp. Instead, climbers first drive to where nomadic herders live. From there, the terrain becomes too rough for vehicles, so you leave the car behind and entrust all your gear to camels. The camels, managed by the nomads, carry the heavy loads, while climbers walk alongside them with only light packs. This walk to the base camp takes about 5 hours. In simple terms, you drive as far as possible, then rely on camels to carry your stuff while you walk with them for 5 hours to reach the base camp. From there, the real climb begins. Thanks to the camels, climbers can save energy by not carrying heavy loads, preparing them better for the ascent.
The best time to climb is from July to September, when the weather is relatively stable. However, climbing is possible year-round, though winter brings more snow, ice, and extreme cold, making it much tougher.
Climbing Routes and Conditions
Khuiten Peak has several routes, but the most commonly used are the **North Route (2A difficulty)** and the South Route (2B difficulty). Both pass through Mongolia’s largest glacier, the Potanin Glacier, to reach the summit. Recently, the South Route has seen less use.
1. North Route (2A Difficulty)
- Starting Point: The climb begins at the base camp (around N49°08'59" E87°56'36") and crosses the Potanin Glacier, which stretches 20 kilometers.
- First Stage: From the base camp, you travel about 8 kilometers to a high camp called “Khonog Tolgoy” (N49°9'53" E87°50'7"). This takes 6–7 hours. On the glacier, you’ll encounter deep crevasses and streams from melting ice, so you move roped together for safety.
- Ascent to the Summit: From Khonog Tolgoy to Khuiten Peak (N49°8'55" E87°49'24") is 2.5–3 kilometers. Rocky sections (labeled rocks 1–4) start here, with the steepest part between rocks 3 and 4, reaching a maximum incline of 65 degrees. This climb takes 5–6 hours.
- Conditions: The average slope is 25–30 degrees, with the steepest section at 55 degrees. Watch out for slippery ice and potential avalanches on the glacier. The summit’s location may differ from maps, so proceed carefully.
2. South Route (2B Difficulty)
- Starting Point: Begins at the base camp and crosses the Potanin Glacier, but it demands more technical skill and time.
- Features: You pass through rock walls and icy sections toward the summit. The average slope is 45–50 degrees, with the steepest part hitting 70 degrees. The ascent takes 8–9 hours.
- Conditions: Though less used recently, this route is known for being more adventurous and challenging.
Required Gear and Preparation
- Group Gear: Rope, ice screws, snow stakes, radio, GPS.
- Personal Gear: Ice axe, crampons, harness, carabiners, climbing aids (ascender, prusik).
- Clothing: Cold-resistant, windproof, and waterproof gear, plus warm boots.
- Preparation: An experienced mountain guide is essential. Check the weather forecast carefully—delay the climb if wind speeds exceed 9 m/s.
Climbing Features
1. Start Time: Ideally, begin between 4 a.m. and 9 a.m. After 3 p.m., winds and storms intensify, making late starts risky.
2. Weather: Above 3,500 meters, conditions turn harsh. Blizzards and frigid winds (sometimes dropping to -20°C) are common.
3. Dangers: Glacier crevasses, slips, rockfalls, and avalanches pose risks. In 2014, a climber died after misjudging a descent from Malchin Peak in the dark and falling.
4. Summit: The top of Khuiten Peak is covered in eternal snow with a small flat area. You can see the borders of Mongolia, Russia, and China from here.
Tips
- Strictly follow the group leader’s instructions—it’s key to staying safe.
- Before the climb, try a lighter ascent to Malchin Peak (4,051 m) or the border marker to get acclimated.
- Leave no trash behind and carry out waste from high camps to respect nature.
Climbing Khuiten Peak is an incredible adventure to reach Mongolia’s highest point, but it demands physical and mental strength, plus a professional guide. Wishing you success!
Fitness Tips
To prepare for this mountain, regularly do running, trail running, or cardio exercises to build endurance, and get used to hiking to condition your body.
