1. Basic information and access
Location: Mount Sutai Hairakhan is located in the center of Tonhir County, Gobi Altai Province, in western Mongolia, and part of it spans Darbi County and Tsetseg County, Khovd Province. The highest peak, Tsasto Bogd (Snow Bogd), is 4,234 meters above sea level and is part of the Mongolian Altai Mountains.
Access:
From Ulaanbaatar to Altai, the central city of Gobi Altai Province, take a domestic flight (about 1.5 hours) or drive about 1,000 km (about 20-24 hours).
From Altai to Tonhir County, it is another 150-200 km (about 6-8 hours depending on road conditions) by 4WD. Many roads are unpaved and may become muddy during the rainy season, so it is recommended to be accompanied by a local guide or driver.
From Tonhir County, drive further to the trailhead, and then approach on foot from the villages and campsites at the foot of the mountain.
2. Climbing Routes
General Route: There are few official records of specific climbing routes, and well-maintained trails are rare in the mountainous regions of Mongolia. There are mainly the following approaches to climbing Sutai Hairakhan:
Route from the South (Tonkhir County side): Start along the "Usan Zyri River" in the bosom of the mountain and begin climbing a gentle slope. On the way, pass through areas of permanent snow and rocky areas and aim for the highest peak, Tsasto Bogd.
Route from the North (Khovd Province side): Go through the larch forest (Har Mod) and proceed along the Murun River valley (Мөрөнгийн голын хөндий). This is a heavily wooded area, so a sense of direction is important until the visibility opens up.
Distance and time: The mountain is 60km long, so the distance from the trailhead depends on the route you choose, but it is estimated to be about 20-30km one way from the base to the summit. Considering the elevation difference of about 2,500m (about 1,700-2,000m at the base), a 2-day or 3-day trip is realistic.
Difficulty: Although there is permanent snow at an altitude of over 4,000m, there are no descriptions of steep rock walls or technical climbing, so it is classified as a trekking for intermediate level hikers. However, there are almost no signposts or guide boards, so a map and GPS (or a local guide) are essential.
3. Necessary equipment
Basic equipment: Hiking boots, rain gear, trekking poles, cold weather clothing (temperatures may drop below freezing at 4,000m), tent, sleeping bag, food, water.
Special equipment: Crampons and ice axes may be useful in permanent snow areas. Even in summer, the weather can change suddenly, so take measures against wind and water.
Notes:
Water sources can be found along the river, but as the altitude increases, the water becomes scarce, so bring plenty of water.
Mobile phone signals are unstable even at the foot of the mountain, and are almost nonexistent in the mountains. Consider using a satellite phone or emergency beacon.
4. Best season
Recommended: Summer, June to August. As the snow melts, temperatures become relatively stable. However, it is also the rainy season, so check the weather forecast.
Times to avoid: Winter (November to March) is dangerous due to snow accumulation and extreme cold (below -20°C).
5. Local guides and permits
In remote areas of Mongolia, it is recommended to be accompanied by a local guide. In particular, since Sutai Hairakhan is a mountain for national rituals, local customs and restrictions must be respected. It is safe to contact the Tonhir County office and local residents to arrange for a climbing permit and a guide in advance.
History of climbing Mt. Sutai Hairakhan
1. First official ascent
Record in 2000: According to the provided text, in 2000, a climber climbed Sutai Hairakhan and measured the altitude of the highest peak, Tsasto Bogd, at 4,234 meters. This is considered the first officially recorded ascent.
The details of the climber (individual or group, nationality, etc.) are unknown, but it is highly likely that they were part of a Mongolian mountain survey or exploration of the Altai Mountains.
This period overlaps with the gradual beginning of modern mountaineering activities in Mongolia.
2. Historical background and tradition
Ancient use: Sutai Hairakhan has long been called "Sutai (Milk Mountain)" or "Sutai" by local people, and was closely related to their lives, such as domesticating wild cattle. Rather than climbing, it was common to enter the mountain for livestock and hunting purposes.
History of rituals:
The "Great Ovoo" on the mountainside has been a place of rituals and an object of faith since ancient times.
On July 26, 2007, Mongolian President N. Enkhbayar's Decree No. 183 designated it as a national ritual mountain, and official ceremonies were held there in 2008, 2012, and 2016. It is believed that unofficial rituals were held by local residents before this.
3. Records of modern climbing
There is little public information on specific climbing records since 2000, and there are no records of large-scale expeditions by Mongolian mountaineering clubs or international climbing organizations.
However, while other high peaks in the Mongolian Altai Mountains (e.g., Mount Khuyten, 4,374 m above sea level) have attracted the attention of international climbers, Sutai Hairakhan may also be climbed by local climbers and a small number of explorers.
4. Legends and Culture
Legends:
The myth that a mountain separated from the Himalayas and took root in Altai and the origin of the name "Sutai" (a mountain of milk, symbolizing the prosperity of sheep and cows) provide a cultural background to the history of mountaineering.
The anecdote of the sumo wrestler Жамбал around 1920 is also passed down as an episode that shows the strength of the region and its connection to the mountain.
Additional Notes and Observations
Realism of the climbing method: Sutai Hairakhan is a remote mountain with no maintained climbing trails, so local knowledge and sufficient preparation are essential for modern climbing. Since the mountainous areas of Mongolia are difficult to access and the tourism infrastructure is underdeveloped, it is necessary to challenge it at your own risk.
Limits of History: The reason why there are few clear records other than the first summit in 2000 is because Mongolian climbing culture is not as developed as in Europe and the United States and Japan, and records are difficult to keep. Another reason is that it is a sacred mountain for local people, and climbing as a recreational activity is not widespread.
